Browneries!

This recipe is world famous. It was brought to Italy in 2004 by a red-headed Texan named Linaya (or "Leah" for those who know her by her pre-stage name). While it may look like a simple brownie recipe, it is so so much more. It is countless nights of midnight (and 4 a.m.) baking sprees. It is the wide-eyed surprise of Italians when they discover with that first choclately bite that perhaps the best food in the world is not, in fact, made only by their mothers. It is eating them out of the baking sheet with sticky fingers, or masterfully arranging them on plates with swirls of freshly whipped cream and ripe strawberries. Yes, these are "browneries" which get their name from the awkward English of some enthusiastically drunk Italian acquaintance. They get their sweet charm, however, from the all fun memories of our first, hilarious cultural exchanges so lovingly prepared with each batch.

ingredients
* 10 tablespoons (1 1/4 sticks) unsalted butter
* 1 1/4 cups sugar
* 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
* 1/4 teaspoon salt
* 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
* 2 cold large eggs
* 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
* 2/3 cup walnut or pecan pieces (optional)
* Special equipment: An 8-inch square baking pan

preparation
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F. Line the bottom and sides of the baking pan with parchment paper or foil, leaving an overhang on two opposite sides.

Combine the butter, sugar, cocoa, and salt in a medium heatproof bowl and set the bowl in a wide skillet of barely simmering water. Stir from time to time until the butter is melted and the mixture is smooth and hot enough that you want to remove your finger fairly quickly after dipping it in to test. Remove the bowl from the skillet and set aside briefly until the mixture is only warm, not hot.

Stir in the vanilla with a wooden spoon. Add the eggs one at a time, stirring vigorously after each one. When the batter looks thick, shiny, and well blended, add the flour and stir until you cannot see it any longer, then beat vigorously for 40 strokes. Stir in the nuts, if using. Spread evenly in the lined pan.

Bake until a toothpick plunged into the center emerges slightly moist with batter, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool completely on a rack.

Lift up the ends of the parchment or foil liner, and transfer the brownies to a cutting board. Cut into 16 or 25 squares.

You may also serve as above, with fresh fruit and melted chocolate drizzled all over. Drives the Italians wild.